Cross stitch patterns: a beginner's guide to reading, choosing, and sizing

Q: How do I read a cross stitch pattern?

Each square on the chart represents one cross stitch on the fabric. The symbol or color in the square tells you which thread to use; the legend maps every symbol to a thread code such as a DMC number. Most stitchers start at the center of the chart, marked by arrows on the edges, and work outward so the design ends up centered on the fabric.

Q: How many strands of floss should I use?

Embroidery floss comes in six strands twisted together, and you separate out what you need. A common choice is two strands for full cross stitches on 14-count Aida and one strand for backstitch outlines, though kits and patterns may specify otherwise.

Q: What is a good first cross stitch pattern?

Choose something small, roughly 40 to 80 stitches wide, with 10 to 20 colors, mostly full stitches, and little or no confetti. That keeps thread changes manageable and gives you a finished piece within weeks rather than months.

A cross stitch pattern is a grid-based chart in which every square represents one X-shaped stitch on the fabric. The symbol or color in each square tells you which thread to use, and a legend maps those symbols to thread codes such as DMC numbers. To stitch from a pattern, you find the center of the chart and the center of your fabric, then work outward square by square.

Every cross stitch project starts with a pattern, whether it comes from a kit, a designer, or your own photo. This guide covers the fundamentals beginners ask about most: reading the chart, understanding fabric count, calculating finished size, choosing floss strands, and picking a first project you will actually finish.

How to read a cross stitch pattern

A pattern has two parts that work together:

The chart: a grid where each square is one stitch. Bold lines usually mark every tenth row and column so you can count without losing your place, and arrows on the edges point to the center.
The legend (or key): the table that maps each symbol to a floss color, typically a DMC code, often with the number of stitches per color.

Symbols matter more than colors on paper: two similar shades of brown are hard to distinguish in print, but a heart and a triangle never are. That is why well-made charts assign a distinct symbol to every color.

Where to start stitching? Most stitchers start at the center of the design, found by following the edge arrows on the chart and folding the fabric in quarters. Starting in the center guarantees the design ends up centered on your fabric, with even margins for framing.

Fabric count, explained simply

Cross stitch fabric, most commonly Aida, is woven with a regular grid of holes. The count is the number of stitches that fit in one inch:

Fabric count	Stitch size	Best for
11-count	Large, easy to see	Children, first projects, lower vision
14-count	The common standard	Most beginners and most kits
16–18 count	Finer detail	Portraits and detailed designs
22–28 count	Very fine	Experienced stitchers, heirloom pieces

The same pattern shrinks as the count rises: 140 stitches is 10 inches wide on 14-count but only 7 inches on 20-count. StitchCraft supports fabric counts from 11ct to 28ct and always shows your pattern's finished dimensions in both centimeters and inches.

Finished size: the one formula you need

Stitches ÷ fabric count = inches. Multiply by 2.54 for centimeters. So a 66 × 100 stitch pattern on 14-count Aida measures 4.7 × 7.1 inches, or 12 × 18.1 cm. Always add at least 5 cm (2 inches) of margin on every side for hooping and framing. A pattern app or the pattern's cover page should do this math for you; StitchCraft prints fabric size recommendations right in the exported PDF.

How many strands of floss?

Standard embroidery floss (like DMC Stranded Cotton) is made of six thin strands twisted together. You cut a length, then pull out the number of strands the pattern calls for. Common practice:

Two strands for full cross stitches on 14-count Aida, the typical kit standard.
One strand for backstitch outlines and fine detail lines.
Higher-count fabric generally means fewer strands; always check what your pattern specifies.

Choosing a first pattern you will finish

The projects that end up unfinished are almost always too big or too fragmented. For a first pattern, look for:

Size: roughly 40 to 80 stitches on the longest side.
Colors: 10 to 20, so thread changes stay manageable.
Solid blocks of color rather than scattered single stitches (confetti).
Mostly full stitches, with backstitch only for outlines.

Custom patterns follow the same rules. If you generate a pattern from a photo, keep the grid modest and the palette small; the guide on generating a cross stitch pattern from a photo explains how to keep converted photos stitchable. If you would rather design a motif yourself, start with the guide on creating your own cross stitch pattern.

Make the pattern personal

Ready-made patterns are a great way to learn, but the fastest-growing corner of the hobby is custom work: family photos, pets, wedding portraits, and original samplers. StitchCraft turns your own photos into charts with real DMC codes, lets you design from a blank canvas, tracks your stitching progress section by section, and exports a print-ready PDF with a legend and shopping list. It is free to download on iPhone and iPad and works completely offline.

Your next pattern is in your photo library Create up to three patterns per day, free. Real DMC colors, no account.

Download on the App Store

Frequently asked questions

How do I read a cross stitch pattern?

Each square on the chart represents one cross stitch. The symbol or color in the square tells you which thread to use; the legend maps every symbol to a thread code such as a DMC number. Most stitchers start at the center of the chart, marked by arrows on the edges, and work outward.

What does fabric count mean?

Fabric count is the number of stitches per inch of fabric. On 14-count Aida, 14 stitches fit in one inch. Higher counts produce smaller stitches and a finer, smaller finished piece; 14 and 16 count are the most beginner-friendly.

How many strands of floss should I use?

Floss comes in six strands twisted together, and you separate out what you need. A common choice is two strands for full cross stitches on 14-count Aida and one strand for backstitch, though patterns may specify otherwise.

How do I calculate the finished size of a pattern?

Divide the stitch count by the fabric count. A pattern 140 stitches wide on 14-count Aida is 10 inches (about 25 cm) wide. Add at least 5 cm (2 inches) of margin on every side for hooping and framing.

What is a good first cross stitch pattern?

Something small, roughly 40 to 80 stitches wide, with 10 to 20 colors, mostly full stitches, and little or no confetti. That keeps thread changes manageable and gives you a finished piece within weeks.